Varanasi transfigured
An afternoon walking tour revealed the sorts of things you might fantasise about finding, but never do in solo exploration - hidden temples, a surprise view of the Ganges past a Mughal-era mosque, a flower market with garlands & marigolds piled higher and more fragrantly than any foodstuff.

So we traipsed, yawning yet curious, onto a boat tour at five the next morning. Which is when the beauty and strange rhythms of the city really revealed themselves. Morning bathers by the dozen, ghats leading from one to the next anarchically if inevitably - and the rituals of death, more visible than anywhere outside a warzone.

It's very calming, somehow, and leaves you moved.

Thanks to Aayush and his sensational team for the sort of experience to cherish and remember until, well, the end.